Door Installation

A door that drags, won't latch, or lets a draft through is almost always an installation problem, not a door problem. Hanging one right means a plumb, square frame, even reveals all around, and hardware that lines up on the first try. The door is the easy part; the fit is the craft.

Exterior doors add the weather layer — and in a West Michigan winter that layer earns its keep. A poorly sealed entry door is a draft you feel and a heating bill you pay, so weatherstripping, threshold, and sweep matter as much as the slab itself. Storm doors add a second line of defense worth having here.

Describe the opening: interior or exterior, the rough size, whether you're replacing a slab in an existing frame or the whole unit, and any problem the current door has. Photos of the door and its frame tell the estimate what it's walking into — older homes especially can have out-of-square openings that change the job.

Cost tracks the opening, not just the door: a simple interior slab swap is quick, while an exterior unit that needs the frame squared, flashed, and re-trimmed is a bigger job. Batch multiple doors into one visit where you can — interior doors especially install efficiently in a group, and the estimate reflects the shared setup.

Can you replace just the door, not the whole frame?

Often, if the frame is sound and square — a slab swap is quicker and cheaper. If the frame is racked or rotted, a full unit is the honest answer, and the evaluation says which yours needs.

My exterior door is drafty. Replace it?

Not always — weatherstripping, a new sweep, and threshold adjustment fix many drafts for far less than replacement. If the slab is warped or the frame is failing, replacement earns its cost.

Do you install storm doors?

Yes — they add real winter protection and are a common West Michigan request. Note the entry's dimensions and exposure in your request.